Pallet Barn Door w/ Pet Entry

In order to save some much needed space in our guesthouse, I decided a barn door would be the best solution in separating the bathroom dressing area from the hallway. After spending some time looking at images online, I kind of had an idea of what I wanted to create and got to working on a sketch, even guestimating at some of the dimensions.

First thing I did was hit up the local hardware stores. Pretty much all of them will have old pallets available for free, and a few might charge a buck or two for slightly better ones. Since I wanted my piece to be heavy on the "worn" side, I opted for the free. Don't stop at just a few either. I found that only about three or four pieces of wood were actually usable from each pallet. You'll find that a lot of the boards have significant splits in them. And you might accidentally split a few more as you learn to pry them off carefully. 

Once I had enough boards to make the height I desired, I realized I wanted something a bit thicker and sturdier to line with. I hit gold at my local Habitat for Humanity Restore and found some gray boards almost an inch thick. And being pre-loved, I got all the pieces I needed for 50 cents a pop. 

Once I had my design down, it was time to get busy with the saws and nail gun. And yes, I even made this door kitty friendly, as I didn't want our little Elsa to ever be locked out of her cat box. 

I intentionally chose boards of various colors, so I didn't want to risk using a colored stain that could very well make them all look similar. So, I used only a clear matte polyurethane which really made their color and impurities pop. See?

Lastly, I used an industrial pipe and flanges for the outer handle and a simpler grip on the back side. If you choose piping too, I suggest you clean with alcohol, allow to dry, then spray a clear coat or two to keep it from rusting. Attach the barn door hardware and done! Considering this was my first attempt at a barn door and I had no bloody clue how to go about doing it, I have to admit it came out better than expected. A few learning hiccups along the way, but it only added to the 'aged and distressed' look I was going for. And as for the price, your choice of hardware determines the outcome. Barn door hardware can range anywhere from $50 to several hundred bucks. I chose one on the cheaper side and can honestly say it looks good and has held up well. Since my barn door ended up thicker than most, I did have to purchase additional spacers to match and longer bolts to support the weight (which I still need to paint so the silver doesn't show. :D )

Aged Calendar Framing

Ever come across a print you adore but you're beyond the age of postering walls? I had the most adorable calendar in 2017 that kept me thinking year round, "What could I do with this come January?" Obviously I can't sell anything I make because it's not my own art, but that doesn't mean I can't use if for my own décor! And sure, I could be boring and put it behind glass in a frame, but that's really not my style. Besides, my home has slowly been changing from old world to more of an industrial and distressed wood motif, so it's time I learned to start framing. 

I began this journey by picking out my favorite pieces that'll blend best with the room. 

Step 1: Cut a piece of 1/4" plywood to fit the poster. 

Step 2: Measure, cut and staple the back support onto the plywood. Lightly sand the edges if needed. 

Step 3: Measure, cut and staple the side support. Lightly sand the edges if needed.

Step 4: Glue the poster onto the plywood. I suggest a glue stick (heavy on the edges) because liquids are likely to form pools that leave a bubbling effect. 

Step 5: Fill the staple indentations with wood filler, wipe away the excess, then sand once dry. Stain the wood. Depending on the brand or color, you may want to wipe as you go like I did because the cedar instantly soaked it in.

As much as I loved the bright colors of this piece, I wanted it toned down a bit, so I chose to stain the poster as well. Wipe quickly so you don't oversaturate the paper.

For reference, I used cedar wood on both pieces. For stain, Jacobean on the square; English Chestnut on the rectangle.

For me, this was almost a free project. The calendar was from the previous year, the cedar was left over from a deck project and the stain was just one of many cans in the garage. The saws and staple gun were also previously purchased. The only thing I really had to get was the plywood. 

Clubhouse Loft Bed

Meet my little boy Riley (might as well, 'cause he'll be present in quite a few of these pics). When it came time to find his first bed, I did a lot of internet searching. Sadly, I wasn't seeing much of anything that popped out as gotta have. Except for one - a clubhouse loft bed. It was boyish, cute, practical and a space-saver. Unfortunately, it had two major negatives. One, it was sold overseas, and two, it was ridiculously priced - as in more than $2300. I love my kid, but seriously? Come on. 

But being me, I decided to put my creativity to good use and build a similar one myself. This was quite a jump for me seeing as how I'd never actually built something before. I've watched a hundred home improvement shows with my mom, how hard could it be? (I'm laughing right now. But really, it wasn't that bad). First thing I did was choose my mattress and use those dimensions to draw up a design. And since I was the one who was going to climb in that thing to change the sheets, I made sure to make the base several inches bigger than the mattress so it wouldn't be such a struggle. The extra space also allows me to tuck his comforter in on all sides. Can't usually get that luxury from a pre-made one, am I right?

With all my dimensions in hand, I went to my local Home Depot and had them cut the framing wood for me. Since I wanted this bed to look irregular, I drew each side out on a large piece of plywood and used a hand saw to cut each individual piece. 

Once I had the design and wood in hand, this project took me the better part of a weekend. It came together surprisingly easy, even though I had to make a few small runs back to Home Depot. Good thing they were close by! And the price tag on this adventure? From wood, hardware, paint supplies, and materials to make privacy curtains, it cost just under $350. And the excitement on my lil' boy's face was perfect!

I'm pretty sure I took some photos of this while I was doing it, but I built it years ago and forgot to post. So who knows where they are by now. Probably on an old phone that froze up. What I can show you is that originally, I used a premade 4-step stair on his bed. I simply turned it upside down to make it more vertical and added the missing wood. 

I also drilled some recessed holes in my posts so that curtains could be pulled for privacy on the bottom. However, I soon found out that weak metal rods and little boys don't go together very well. After he bent two of them, I opted for rebar. Now it's little boy tuff!

And thanks to his PawPaw, some fun, adjustable lighting was added all around the inside. Personally, I get a headache just looking at that pulsing light, but Riley loves it. It also has several light settings so he always has just the right amount of light.

All was perfect in Riley and Gabby world (the puppy who lived beneath the loft). But flash forward a few years, I found myself trying to fit Riley's bed in a much smaller room. Suddenly those stairs that were wonderfully safe for his toddler years were now more of a hindrance, as it left little room for anyone to pass by.

That's all right. I'm always up for a good challenge.

Industrial piping had become very popular these past few years and I'd been wanting to incorporate it within our household. What a perfect opportunity! It ended up being simple enough. Secure two more posts and buy the piping. Took care of the problem in less than a day, but I will say it's the more expensive route. The price of industrial piping has risen with its popularity. This necessary upgrade added about $75. And since I thought it might be a little awkward getting in and out, I added a steampunk water valve so he'd have something to grip on.

And for those of you wondering how the heck I manage to move this beast of a bed around, it's actually quite simple. I designed it to move in pieces. Each side is its own component, as are the roof, base and legs. It takes about an hour or two to break down and put up completely, but it's something I've never had an issue doing despite a couple of moves now. And it's always been Riley's favorite place to hang out. And Gabby's too.

Click to enlarge blueprints.